Vacation

Ahhh… the sun on my face, the sand between my toes, the soft wind blowing and the distant noises of kids playing combined with seagulls screaming overhead…. I am sitting in a long chair on a beach in Trouville-Sur-Mer, Normandy, enjoying the sunny day. The weather in Normandy is exactly what people kept telling me it would be: completely unpredictable. This morning was grey and cloudy, and cold. I needed my warmest sweater to go out for a walk. The wind was strong, so much that my hair was always blowing around all over my face like a wild curtain, blocking my view half the time. We considered a picnic on the beach for lunch but eating sand was not appetizing, so we carried our bastognes and salami, cherry tomatoes and baguettes back to our room and ate on our more or less sheltered balcony, overlooking the sea, watching the ships just on the horizon.

We talked about how to dress later for our afternoon on the beach, which was going to happen regardless of the weather. Elliot’s main goal that day was to spend all his time digging in the sand with his cousins.

Then as we sat there, we started to notice that the dark clouds were being swept slowly away toward the east, being replaced by thin white whisps, and then those blew away like dust and the sky cleared. The bright hot sunshine fell down on us. The light seemed brighter than normal to our startled eyes, it reflected off the sea like a million stars.

We grabbed our things, sunscreen, books, beach toys, and ran out the door onto the beach.

The beaches in Normandy are amazing. The tides are so extreme that at low tide you have a huge expanse of white sand, so choosing a spot to set up is no problem. We rented one of the local beach tents that are typical of the beaches there, a brightly coloured round tent, open on one side, where you can have some shelter from the dazzling sun or wind if needed.

So now I’m sitting here on my long chair enjoying the warmth. I open my eyes and look way out to the sea. There are people jumping over the waves, small dark figures against the sun, and every wave flashes with bright sparkling light, then curls into a white foam and flattens as it slowly rolls in.

Yesterday we visited Juno beach, not far from here. It’s where all the Canadian troops landed on June 6th 1944, one of the five beaches that are side by side along this coast, where the D Day landings took place and the liberation of France began. Apparently there were so many ships and smaller boats in the sea, and men and equipment on the beaches that huge traffic jams occurred. Right here, in this sand, where my child runs now, completely oblivious to the literal blood, sweat and tears that were spilled not so many years ago.

Every town hall I have passed in this region flies all of the flags of the Allied countries which liberated Normandy after D Day, so it’s pretty cool to see the Canadian flag everywhere. The Canadian cemetery nearby has over 5000 graves, in a picturesque setting on a green hilltop overlooking the sea. There are fresh flowers recently placed in front of several gravestones.

Each grave has a soldier’s name on it, his unit, and his age. I didn’t see any over 23 years old. I think about the mothers who lost their sons on that day, and the next several days. The telegram arriving at the door. People feared the postman. A telegram was never good news.

It makes me think of receiving CT scan results. The formal piece of paper that reduces your life to a mere statement of facts.

Is it possible I can now relate anything back to cancer, or is war an actual valid comparison?

I haven’t had lots of time to just sit and think on this vacation, we’ve been busy every day. But right now as we sit on the warm beach in the sunshine, Martin and his sister are chatting, Elliot and his three cousins are digging for lost treasure and I can tune out a bit.

The first unit to come ashore lost half it’s men. Their landing had been delayed because of the weather (unpredictable Normandy, time has not changed that), so the tides had risen much more than anticipated. They couldn’t see the hidden mines and obstacles under the water.

I look out to the horizon. The tide is coming in now, the beach has narrowed a bit. I imagine watching 14,000 Canadian soldiers, barely more than teenagers, running toward me, stumbling, falling, crawling their way up the beach carrying heavy equipment, or maybe just carrying hope and fear for their their lives. I wonder if it was cold like this morning, if they shivered in their wet uniforms as they struggled up the sand past the dunes, over the rows of barbed wire and into the fields. Or was the sun out by then, mesmerizingly bright, blinding them as they tried to make out friend from foe? Did any of them have time to notice how beautiful the sea looked, or was it too red?

I get up from my chair and tell Martin I’m heading back to the hotel for a bit. We’re lucky our hotel is basically right off the beach, just across the boardwalk, so we all make lots of trips back and forth during the afternoon. The receptionist at the hotel does not seem to like this much, each time we have to ask for our key, which is one of those big brass things you could use as a paperweight. The hotel is an old historic building, and since I’m engrossed in WWII thoughts I can’t help but wonder what it was like in those times. Did secret French Résistance meetings take place behind closed doors?

I cross the boardwalk, which is littered with Beautiful People, yes, with capital letters. The Parisians are on vacation as of last weekend, and many of them are here. The women sitting at outdoor cafés along the boardwalk all look glamorous, the men all look sophisticated. This despite the constant wind, sometimes gentle, sometimes not, that blows across Normandy.

I take the ancient elevator up to our room, it’s one of those old rickety lifts with the second inner door that closes once you’re inside. There is barely enough room for three people in it, much less all the luggage we arrived with yesterday.

In our room I glance in the mirror to see how close I am to imitating the BPs, and note with regret that the wind has helped me look very similar to a broom. Oh well. I look out our window and see my family out there, enjoying the day. And yet I still also see all the uniforms running. Who stood here on this balcony on that day?

Is cancer like war? A bodily conflict, the chemo and radiotherapy soldiers being sent in to fight off the aggressor, in the hopes a strong strategy and superior numbers will win? The collateral damage is obvious. In France it’s estimated that at least 15 000 French civilians died on D Day, many from the Allied bombings that cleared the way for the troops.

Am I being too dark? Thinking of war, a conflict that is caused by people, and comparing it to cancer, an illness which none of us deliberately engages in? Yeah, maybe I am.

Martin and I both find we are a bit shell-shocked these days, like we are still reeling from the emotional impact of the last year. In some ways I think we were in “survival mode” the whole time, and just powered through because we had no other choice. Now that we have stepped away from the cancer world a bit, we often look at each other and say “Can you believe what we’ve been through?”

So maybe I am a bit melodramatic with the whole war concept, or maybe I’m suffering from a bit of post-traumatic shock… Or most likely both. I have been told I have a flair for the dramatic (not exactly these words were used, but I am going to take it as a compliment.)

Regardless, I do think I could look fabulous in a trench coat and a fedora, tipped slightly at an angle to shield my eyes, secretly running down the quiet cobblestone streets at night, slipping quietly around corners, whispering through a crack in the door to my résistance friends some secret code word to tell them of the imminent invasion so we can all join in. Martin would of course have been part of the Danish Resistance Movement, had we lived in those times, and would have been one of the many Danish heroes who smuggled all the Jewish Danes out of the country by boat into Sweden, making Denmark the only occupied country to have saved almost it’s entire Jewish population. Our heroic saga would end romantically when we part ways at a fog-shrouded airport, both destined for different missions…

Oh who am I kidding? In truth I would probably be hiding in a basement, waiting it out.

Oh well. We’ll always have Paris.

The Woman’s Eyes

I hardly notice anymore that Elliot has no hair. I do notice people’s reactions when they see him, if we’re at a restaurant or the store, and his hat falls off, or he takes it off, since he doesn’t really care. Sometimes, there’s a double-take. I’m not always sure what people think. I guess, looking at him, you would know right away that he’s a cancer kid. Although you see a lot of kids with crew cuts and even shaved heads these days, he has those few little wisps of fur-like hairs that are the tell-tale signs of chemo treatment.

Every now and then the subject comes up when he’s around, but it doesn’t seem to bother him much. His first reaction to losing his hair was how funny it was that he looks like his dad now. Not sure Martin was ever so proud as that moment when Elliot saw his reflection and said in surprise “Hey, I have almost no hair! I look like papa!”, then laughed and walked away. He has been relatively unaffected by the change in his looks. We’re careful, however, when the subject is mentioned and he’s around, to always say something positive about it. He’s only 5 years old, and not yet very aware of the importance people place on appearance, but he is at that age where he is starting to understand the meaning of “fitting in”.

Recently, a friend was visiting and mentioned that it looked like Elliot’s hair was growing back already (a temporary event since he’s still in chemo, sometimes it does seem to be sprouting up again like tiny weeds, then a week later he’s so bald his head shines).  Both Martin and I chimed in with our automatic remarks, something like“yep, it’ll grow back at some point, but in the meantime, he’s so handsome with those big blue eyes.” Sometimes we talk about how nice a head shape he has, or how great his ears look. And it’s all true, too. We actually find him to be quite a good looking kid. So we’re not lying or exaggerating his eye-beauty etc, it’s just a clever rebuttal, a re-direct.

But I actually don’t think the baldness issue is about looks, for most people. Even in the non-cancer world (you know, that world we all used to live in, going about our daily business naïvely thinking we were safe from… everything?). Even in the non-cancer world I think any negative view of chemo-baldness is really an instinctive judgement about health, not beauty. People associate this type of baldness with being sick. And, to be fair, it is often a pretty accurate instinct. But the fact is, there are many times, despite those rotten cells causing trouble,  when a person with cancer does not feel sick. At least not throw-up sick. Any of you out there by the way have levels or categories of sick? Like, throw-up-sick versus just lie-on-the-couch-too-tired-to-push-the-button-on-the-remote sick? Just curious, as I’m not the one with cancer in our home, I can’t judge for sure.

But since I do know that many times, a cancer-boy (or girl) does not feel very sick, we are sometimes out in public. Often I won’t take Elliot anywhere where there might be a lot of people, if the blood count is low. But other times, we do go to restaurants and stores, even the occasional playground if we’re feeling particularly invincible. And recently, that’s when I started to notice them. Well, the lack of them, actually. The others. The other baldies, like my son. I know the statistics: childhood cancer is quite rare, so bumping into another baldie while at the playground is probably unlikely But adult cancer is really so common, comparatively… So where are you all? Before I hurt anyone’s feelings, I will get off my high horse and say right away, as I have told many people, that if what had happened to Elliot had happened to me I would be tempted to go into my room and hide under my blanket and come out two years later. On the other hand, if I could trade places with him and have this stupid cancer be in my kidney instead, I would do it in a heartbeat. But that’s not possible.

So we head out “into the world” today and I wonder where everyone is. I would love to bump into a bald person. Seriously. I mean, obviously, I am into balding men anyway, but man would I like to see a woman or man wearing a scarf or hat like Elliot. Or just nothing. A nude head, parading around proudly in public for all to see. Wow, would that ever make me happy.

But generally, we never do see other cancer-fighters out there. Until yesterday. Lo! and Behold! I spot one. We are at the mall. It’s raining out, and we got bored at home (just how many legos does it take to build the Eiffel Tower, I will never know).

A woman comes over and sits next to me on a bench near the kids playing area where Elliot is running around. She is wearing a long silk scarf beautifully wrapped around her head. She does look pale, and maybe a bit thin, but actually pretty good.  I don’t say anything, but am silently excited. How can I convey to her that I am also from “that world?” Damn my hair.

Elliot runs over to ask if we can get an ice cream. He is wearing the blue sunhat with the octopus on the front (by the way, the octopus must absolutely be placed at exactly the correct frontal position or a tearful crisis will ensue. Cancer reaction or normal 5 year old? Anyone?)

With his hat it’s hard to tell he is bald. He stares blatantly at the woman. Then turns to me and says, and I am sure he speaks at least 10 decibels above his normal voice volume: “Hey, she’s bald”. I start to feel a bit hot. The woman clears her throat. She looks at him and smiles quietly. He takes that as an opening for him to increase the volume by another 20 decibels or so and ask her “How come YOU have no hair?”.

Now, I know why he’s asking. He wants to chat with her about baldness the way he would otherwise chat with a friend about playmobil. Baldness is familiar to him. If she had a visible scar he would probably happily lift his shirt up to show the one that stretches across his abdomen.

But the woman doesn’t know that, she just thinks he’s another innocent five year old asking an innocent question, and in a show of remarkable patience and probably practice she calmly says “Well, I have to take medicine that made my hair fall out. But it will grow back after a while”. Then she slowly gets up to go while Elliot stares at her with his “duh… I knew THAT” look.

And just as she starts to walk away he calls after her “Well it’s good that you have nice eyes!”
And she turns and stares at him a bit, and I love him.